Відео

Those Hard lines from Porsche are INCREDIBLY EXPENSIVE...save them at all costs if possible. Some are NLA. The last time I checked the Long front Passenger side was over $700 US . Take your time and work them loose. Heat, flare wrench on the solid nut and "crows foot" on as long a ratchet as you can find and work them loose. Just did Transmission lines that were SOLID...wrap a towel in Solvent of choice and let them sit for a day or two. The Aluminum Hubs are fine raw.

You’re doing a very good job!!

Well done mate. 928 door cards are a major pain to deal with.

Good info

I always joke that whatever problem you have, somebody on youtube has your solution. So here I am, watching Todd Gibbs solving my problem for a jammed plunger in a fuel distributor in my 1979 porsche 928😂😂 thanks Todd!

Hi Todd. Have you wathched this video? ua-cam.com/video/GHTSjoFD1vw/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared They seem to know thier stuff on oils and they have a pretty convincing explaination to the flex plate & torque tube issue. Keep up the good work. 🎉

Nicer, more appropriate sound with the silencers! With gear changes, do you think you’re getting full throttle travel when accelerating?

Great video, enjoyed watching the problem solving.

I had an ‘82 with the 3spd auto as a daily driver for 10 years. If I floored the throttle and kept my foot to the floor it would hold a gear through to 6,000 rpm before changing up. However I found it more enjoyable to shift it like a tiptronic. Moving the shifter to 1st to start off it would hold 1st until I moved the shifter to 2nd.

I have done s similar adjustment process and come to the conclusion that the only way to get full rpm is to change the gears manually. Maybe thats how its supposed to be.

You seem to skip the part where you jammed the throttle peddle down and checked the cables, if the arm at the transmission is at its full travel there’s nothing left to give. If there’s still some play and no adjustment left you could put a knot in the cable under the hood.

Change the modulator switch Todd.

Nice episode Todd, sort of casino how far the rpm could go. You unleashed 25 extra horses between 4k rpm and 5k😊. Offtopic : is known why the cold start takes so many cranks? Our 928 had such an issue too and it turned out be a fullpressureregulator

Great progress this week. What an absolute nightmare of a problem!

Nice work Todd... If you put the gearbox in 1 or 2 (as opposed to drive) will it rev to the 6000 rpm redline when nailing it?

Nice work Todd

I bet that housing estate really looks forwards to you using them for a sound test 🤣 More great diagnosis work. You'll get there in the end!

Todd, Took a break for 10 months from my '81 restoration. Going back to it next week. While you did not remove the handbrake cables from the rear hubs, I wonder if you had anyone refer you and sources on how to do that? As purchased the attachment from the cable to the parking brake shoe mechanism was broken so I have to remove the cables. Specific question is "is it possible to remove the metal sleeve that appears to be pressed in the hub (through which the cable travels)? Or maybe more appropriately - Must I remove that in order to fit a new cable? Many thanks for all the inspiration.

Can you do a video on AC / alternator / power steering belt replacements

Good to see you back Mr Gibbs! When is the nitro boost going in? I’m expecting at least 1000bhp out of this baby.

It's looking Quite Nice ,,Very impressed with the Holes U Cut in for Speaker holes, How did u go about that chore ?Wow . It looks, factory. Also I have used super glue or Jet to strengthen cardboard, & Learned to use Backing soda as a filler ,to bulk up small voids or tears .Put it on location Dry & then wet with fresh glue to lock up white powder, It worked well for me. The leather Coloring went well ,as you built up the base color slowly, coming back to original appearance. Thanks for sharing a great Video

Saw your comment about what you are doing wrong 😂air in to the fluid line works best👍

This is really interesting for me as mine only reads 1/2 when full, rises really slowly and the reserve light is on all the time. Thanks for this

Awesome achievement well done

Enjoy watching your series of videos 👍 Did you consider having the block professional cleaned? Like where it’s put into a vat of hot cleaning solution and it removes all the grease, grime, old gasket material, etc.

in my eyes, the 996 turbo is the most beautiful generation of them all. It still has this old school 90s/00s vibe while at the same time looking very aggressive

The pressure modulator does indeed control shift firmness. On my 928, I had a soft change with an annoying “flare” between changes. Winding up modulator fixed this, to the point I get a tyre squeal between gear changes when my foot hits the pedal hard. Cheers from Sydney.

I bow do(w)n to your perserveance wiith fault finding I can give my 3 speed 4.5 a blat tomorrow and see where things change up and down if you like Weather might be alright, winter is knocking on door But another great video for us to referernce to

Regarding the oil pump washers are they not standard cup washers A8,4 as per the parts list?

Hi Todd, I have the 3 speed AT and setting the shifting later or earlier is done at the back on the AT itself. There is a clamp that you can change. The more tight you set the cable, the quicker it shifts. I have the impression that your kickdown is not working properly. Kickdown is done via a switch under your gaspedal. If operate the kickdown at around 30Mph, it should raise rpm from 2000 till 4000

As always, impressed with your approach to repairing your car. Did you make a video outlining your goals and approach for the build?

There's a possibility that the Bowden cable is stretched almost to the limit of adjustment. Worth bearing mind, if nothing else. Keep up the good work Todd, looking forward to the next vid. 👍

Firstly, I have the later 4 speed but I think the idea is the same. The bowden cable is critical for the shift point and a small adjustment makes all the difference. The kick down is entirely electrical - there's a switch under the gas pedal and an electrical servo on the gearbox. On mine, the adjustment for the bowden is under the inlet manifold. Tricky to get at but possible. The factory setting requires removing the ball joint (which you did) and adjusting it so that it just reconnects without any pushing or pulling. You have to remove it as the return spring is not that strong. This depends, of course, on your throttle being correctly adjusted first.

Maybe something with the magnets inside the diff?

Hey Todd...a coujple of links for you: Mercedes 722.3x Automatic Transmission Fluid Leak Points: ua-cam.com/video/z-mjwg1-Wzs/v-deo.html Mercedes 722.3 Auto Transmission Service Vacuum Modulator Adjustment Cable Adjustment How To DIY: ua-cam.com/video/WRgAfTmoIkI/v-deo.html

Modulator is for shift firmness...it should be relatively firm. Bowden is your kick down. The shift point on a 3sp is not something I'm super familiar with. Have you gone to Rennlist to research?

I have a 78 manual myself, so I don't know enough about the automatic transmission. However, I am interested in whether the speedo is working after the speed sensor replacement. Super interesting videos, I'll keep watching.

Hi Todd, our first 928 S1 '82 3spd auto did kickdown to first till aprox 55mph or so. Can't Mercedes bring more info about when to shift as this box came from them? Good luck!

My car is an S and has the 4 speed auto, so that is different, however certainly the "engine end" of the bowden cable is adjustable and it greatly changes the change up point. The 4 speed also has the vac pod, my understanding is that changes the "firmness" of the shift rather than the shift point. BTW are you sure your rev counter is accurate? I might be totally wrong but the engine sounds higher than just 4K revs. Maybe the bowden cable is the wrong type, if I look at the 3 speed cable on the rosepassion website, it does look adjustable to me? does yours look like that?

Sort of, the engine vacuum determines the type of shift from soft to hard (with no vacuum). The bowden cable determines the shift point and there's a switch under the throttle pedal that causes kickdown. When your gently driving it should shift up at under 2k not 4k. I'm not sure your rev counter is right, it looks low compared to the sound of the engine

How much in total would you say you’ve spent on restoring it?

Now yer talking

mine is doing my head in, Guess what I will be trying, mine is doing the same, but when it comes on boost and lights them up

Small question, I'm doing more of a poor mans rebuild where I try to salvage as much as possible. Now I would like to look at the injector spray and see if it is good or not. How would you recommend taking it out? Screw it out with the aluminium bushing, so leaving it in the maybe brittle rubber, or pulling it from the rubber? I prefer to just be able to put it back if the injector is good enough.

Us British UA-cam watchers have all started using American phrases , in this you kept saying "bucks" and you're clearly British (maybe you've spent some time in the US) and today I was at the dentist and a chap asked the receptionist "where is the bathroom" ..it makes me laugh, I wonder if Americans are doing the same with our terminology..probably not. Glad you got the Turbo fixed , I've got one, they're brilliant cars , we're off to Sweden in ours in a few weeks, can't wait.

Commenting for the algorithm! :)

You've come such a long way since you started on the non running wreck

Sunny weekends with a classic car in England. Happy days!

Sounds good!

What a car 🚗